The first of two new books with Sarasota connections is from contributing food and wine editor Judi Gallagher, whose Reflections and Recipes of Chef Judi is already out, published by Indiana-based AuthorHouse. It’s loaded with tempting recipes, but it’s more than just a cookbook. Gallagher, who owned two restaurants in New England before moving to Sarasota (where she also stars as chef on ABC7) describes the book as her journey, telling the real story of how food and cooking formed precious childhood memories and later helped guide her through tough times.

The second book is a graphic novel titled I Am Young, by illustrator and Ringling College of Art and Design grad (and daughter of Sarasota Magazine executive editor Kay Kipling and the late Kevin Dean, a longtime Ringling teacher) Molly Dean, under the name M. Dean. Its central story, about a young couple meeting in 1964 Scotland who bond over their love for the Beatles, is interwoven with other tales of relationships, each with its own visual style.

Gallagher’s book ($22.99) is available through Amazon’s and Barnes & Noble’s websites; Dean’s will appear on them soon, too, but also can be pre-ordered now through the publisher

Fantagraphics for $19.99.

*This article first appeared in Sarasota Magazine

In the past two years I have started to hear a little chirp building steadily into a large blown-out buzz among the grillers and smokers (not Camels) in our group of friends. When I first heard of the Big Green Egg, I thought it might be the long awaited sequel to Dr. Seuss’s “Green Eggs and Ham.” It kind of became ‘cult’ chat. I was hearing things like, “Have you done the turkey yet?” or “22 hours cold smoke man and still going.” Was this Green Egg thing legal? Did someone buy some pills off a late night infomercial?
What the heck is it and how do I get some? Well, the Big Green Egg has arrived on my outdoor patio, and I am now a total Egg groupie, otherwise known as an “egg head.”

The Green Egg is based on an ancient Japanese clay cooker called the kamado. The mushikikamado was a steam cooker and oven or liln that was used by Japanese families for ceremonial occasions and took the shape of a round clay pot with a removable domed lid and top damper. Americans discovered the clay pot when servicemen brought them back from Japan in empty transport planes after World War ll.

Redeveloped in Georgia in the 1970s, the Big Green Egg has been around for quite some time but has really come into its “nest” since redeveloped from high fiber ceramics developed for the space shuttle program that allows for temperatures of up to 650 degrees.

We all know that nothing beats charcoal cooking. Although I have a nice outdoor kitchen, (thank you Absolute Aluminum) the Solaire infrared grill that was installed does create a large amount of smoke if you do not invest in a back draft and is best for grilling steaks, not slow cooking and certainly not smoking.

The Big Green Egg recommends lump wood charcoal, and this really is a must. Cheaper brands use additives that can contaminate your food flavors. Part of the design of the BGE results in a slow burn that uses a smaller amount of charcoal and much less ash. Tip for saving some money, when your BGE charcoal runs out, you can buy 10-pound bags of lump wood charcoal for much less at a local Wal-Mart.

The Big Green Egg also becomes an oven and pizza oven with a few additional parts. Trust me, the pizza comes out as if you sitting in Italy next to a wood bringing oven. Within 15-17 minutes, a simple store bought pizza crust transforms into one delicious authentic pizza pie. My son taught us to use very little sauce as to not make the crust soggy. I suggest using Old World Pizza Sauce, under the sir name of Rustic Crust. The box contains three packets of sauce, each for a 9 inch pizza.

How many grills can you smoke salmon and bake a peach blueberry pie on at the same time?

There are some flaws, however, and when you are laying out $1,000 for an Egg you should be aware of these. Although the company claims the felt gasket is designed for maximum moisture retention during long cookouts,our gasket literally melted by the end of the second day of use. Simple enough, order an extra gasket pack.

Green Egg Cooking Tips:
* You MUST “burp” the BGE three to five times before opening to avoid
burning yourself.
* Keep a meat thermometer close by and use it to avoid over cooking.
* Be prepared to becomes obsessed with beer can chicken and make your
own pizza parties, it becomes contagious.
* Buy the pizza stone and inverted oven. You will make almost anything with these parts.
* Spend the extra money and get a large or extra large size egg. Once you
own a Big Green Egg the party almost always ends up at your house.

I’d say 200 degrees to 275 is the perfect range for smoking and 300-350 is perfect for grilling. Sear steaks and chops on a higher heat.

This cook admits it, I am a true egg head. In fact, I hope to attend the Eggtober Fest this fall that has already become a legendary grilling and smoking event in Georgia.

The initial investment in a Big Green Egg is high, but the average BGE lasts up to 10 years and you will save thousands driving to Oklahoma, Memphis and Texas to try real BBQ when you get a hankering.

The main contenders in the culinary ring – National Beef Month and National Vegan Month. They are going head to head for media coverage. In actuality,  National Vegan Awareness falls in the beginning of November while National Beef Month is in the month of May. Makes sense, right? “Veganize” your intentions before you order the free-range happy turkey to slaughter. Why have a true national beef month when three quarters of the country is below freezing and can’t grill? But, the food marketing gurus have a plan for us food writers. Get more attention. So January is the month we celebrate both beef and being a vegan.

Seems odd, until you consider that is the New Year and time for resolutions. We are trying to make amends for our grand feasts of prime rib, gobbles of poultry and every sugar imaginable these past few months. But carnivores love steaks even as beef prices rise and health issues haunt us. We continue to crave, (or at least I do) those medium-rare porterhouse steaks.

In the other corner as the national lightweight contender, we have vegan awareness. I am all in favor of eating healthier and for the sake of full disclosure, last year I embraced the Paleo diet so I am sensitive to friends’ reactions to my cave woman persuasion. I lost 13 pounds, had less anxiety and threw it all away when my husband and I headed to Italy and France for a food vacation of true homemade pasta, (made from flour and eggs) foie gras and roasted duckling. And that was before Thanksgiving came knocking at the kitchen door.

I heard the master of VB6, (Vegan before 6) Mark Bittman speak. It all makes sense to me, until I am sent out to review a new lunch place, or breakfast eatery that specializes in tenderloin steak Benedict and smoked salmon scrambled eggs.

At Flavors & More Magazine we embrace all the pleasures of the table. That includes roasted kale chips and ginger tofu stir-fry or bacon-wrapped filet mignon. Somewhere there is room in our culinary calendar for a national “be kind to all eaters” month. In the interest of impartiality, we offer you our favorite recipes for both Beef Month and Vegan Awareness Month, even if the month of January for both of them is just symbolic. Good eating is real.

Tomatillo and White Bean Chili

(From Vegan Slow Cooking for Two)

1 ½ cups cooked white beans, rinsed and drained

1 cup diced tomatillo

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 heaping Tablespoon green chiles

½ teaspoon dried marjoram

½ teaspoon dried oregano

1/8 teaspoon cumin powder

Kosher Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon fresh minced cilantro

Add all ingredients except salt and pepper to the slow cooker and cook on low 7-9 hours. Season with salt and pepper before serving and adjust seasoning if needed. Serve with BBQ Kale Chips

BBQ Kale Chips

3 bunches kale

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons olive oil

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon allspice

¼ teaspoon dried thyme, crushed between your fingers

Kosher Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Preheat your oven to 200 degree F. In a small bowl stir together the paprika, garlic and onion powders, allspice, cayenne pepper and thyme. In a large bowl toss the kale with the vinegar and oil, and then gradually add the dried spice mixture. Make sure each leaf is coated well in spices. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the kale in a single layer on lined baking sheets. Place the kale in the oven and prop the door open. Bake for 10 minutes and check the progress. Rotate the sheets if necessary. Keep baking for 10-minute increments until the kale is dry and crispy, about 20-30 minutes.

Banana Carrot Donuts

(From Bake and Destroy/Good Food for Bad Vegans)

½ cup vegan margarine

2/3 cup brown sugar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 ripe banana

¼ cup soy milk

2/3 cup finely shredded carrots

¾ cup chopped walnuts

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

Pineapple coconut glaze (see recipe below)

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Spray your donut pan with non-stick spray. Cream together the margarine, brown sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the banana, soy milk and vanilla and beat until smooth. Add carrots and stir in walnuts. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder and baking soda. Slowly add the dry ingredients to the wet, stir until combined. Fill the donut cavities half-full. Bake for 12-15 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, before transferring to a cooling rack to cool completely.

Pineapple Coconut Glaze

Toss the cream of coconut, pineapple and confectioner’s sugar in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Add soy milk as needed to achieve a dunkable texture. Dip each donut into the glaze and set on waxed paper to cool. Let glazed donuts rest about 5 minutes.

Bacon-Wrapped Filet Mignon

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 beef filet steak, 8 to 10 ounces, 2 inches thick

1 piece thin Applewood smoked bacon

1 tablespoon butter, more if needed (I use truffle butter for an earthy rich flavor)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Generously salt and pepper both sides of the steak. Wrap the steak with the bacon and secure with a toothpick.

Heat an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil. When melted, add the steak to the skillet and sear on both sides until a really nice color, about 1 minute per side.Remove the skillet from the stovetop and place into the oven to finish cooking. Cook until medium rare, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5-7 minutes before serving.

Steak au Poivre

(I like to say I won my husband’s heart by serving him Prime Rib and Steak au Poivre both in the same week. Recipe adapted from Tyler Florence.)

1 (4-pound) beef tenderloin

Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 handful fresh thyme sprigs

1 handful fresh rosemary sprigs

2 shallots, finely chopped

1/2 cup Cognac or brandy

1/2 cup demi-glace or dark stock

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons jarred green peppercorns, drained

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Pat the tenderloin dry with paper towels and sprinkle all sides with a generous amount of salt and pepper – you should see the seasoning on the meat. Place a large skillet or roasting pan over medium-high flame, drizzle with the oil, and just when it begins to smoke lay the tenderloin in the hot pan. Brown on all sides until a crust forms and the meat is well-seared, about 7 minutes total. Toss the fresh thyme and rosemary on top of the tenderloin and transfer the whole thing to the oven; roast for 20 to 25 minutes for medium-rare.

Remove the tenderloin to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes before carving. Pour off the excess fat from the pan and put it back on the stove over medium-high heat. Add the shallots  to the pan drippings, sauté, stirring with a spoon to scrape up the flavors in the bottom. Take the pan off the heat and pour in the cognac (pre-measure – never pour directly from the bottle!) Put the pan back on the heat and tilt it slightly over the burner to ignite the alcohol, or light with a kitchen lighter. The cognac will flame for a few seconds then go out as the alcohol burns off. Stir in the demi-glace  and cream, simmer for about 1 minute to thicken the sauce so it coats a spoon. Finish the sauce by stirring in the mustard and peppercorns until incorporated. Taste and season with salt, if necessary. To serve: Drizzle the sauce over the beef and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with steak fries or whipped cauliflower and potato.

F&M

]]> https://chefjudigallagher.com/scrumptious/vegan-versus-beef/feed/ 0 https://chefjudigallagher.com/scrumptious/ah-the-apple-month/ https://chefjudigallagher.com/scrumptious/ah-the-apple-month/#respond Sun, 12 Oct 2014 15:03:30 +0000 http://judigallagher.com/scrumptious/?p=559 Read more

The market is held on Lemon Avenue every Saturday morning from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., and not only is it a place to see and be seen–for dogs as well as humans–it’s a great place to buy all the fresh, locally grown produce you’ll need for a week of cooking. I’m a big fan of the Asian spinach that can be found there, and the Worden Farms stand is a fantastic place to buy organic produce, from herbs to colorful fruits and veggies. (The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota is a big fan of Worden Farms’ produce.) You can get local honey a few booths down–it’s supposed to help relieve pollen allergies–and pick up fresh flowers for your springtime table, perfect for setting the scene for a great meal.

But my favorite new addition to the market is the fish monger, who has set up shop on the corner of Lemon and Main near the Brooks Brothers store. His swordfish is out of this world–you’ve got to try it!

A few tips for those buying fish at the market or grocery store: Always ask if the fish is fresh or frozen and when it was caught. Then buy two small pieces to cook and try for yourself at home. Be sure to try the fish from the market, though–you’ll be heading back to pick up more for sure!

– Judi Gallagher

Cauliflower

Cauliflower isn’t the most vibrant vegetable. But it’s flavor and impact on the food industry for 2014 is impressive.  Cauliflower has been a forceful contributor to eating “clean” and overall healthy, as it is a tasteful substitute for guilty ingredients that are in all-time favorite dishes and is also paleo-friendly. I can remember the first time I tasted cauliflower mash. Fireworks flew within the walls of my mouth. Who ever thought of the delightful idea to mash the albino sister to the loathed broccoli, is an absolute genius. Some other favorite ways to use cauliflower is in dough. Yes, that’s right. You can make a pizza with cauliflower crust! It can also be pickled and served as a side to a savoury sandwich, or roasted in the oven as a “steak”. Although my next adventure with this overlooked vegetable is cauliflower popcorn, sprinkled with parmesan cheese or a squeeze of lemon.

Savory Yogurt

This year, yogurt is going savory. Greek yogurt brands are going beyond fruity tastes and are introducing new ways to enjoy this healthy dish. Carrot, beet and butternut squash flavors are already on the market and they allow for experimentation. An alternative for cream cheese and sour cream, savory yogurt can also be used as a dip. For at home play, mix olive oil, herbs and a pinch of salt with plain greek yogurt and use as a sandwich spread!

Tea

Throw away anything you ever thought about tea. This year, tea will not only be nursed before bedtime or to rid a cold. Expect to see tea used in your cocktails. I’m not talking about the Long Island”, I’m talking about Jasmine, Hibiscus, Green Tea and lavender, all pairing up with spirits such as gin, vodka and tequila. If you are looking to add more flavor in your kitchen at home but don’t want the extra calories, tea leaves are an excellent choice. Steep a bag of your favorite tea in water and the boil vegetables, cook grains or even poach your choice of protein. Use tea leaves in a homemade salad dressing or dip, or to marinate meat for a tender “fall off the bone” affect. Tea is even used in desserts such as macaroons, ice cream and cupcake frosting

Ice Cream Sandwiches

2014 is about experiential food and consumers will take notice in ice cream sandwiches. They are predicted to be have a “sweet-spot” in food trucks and pop-up restaurants.  This sweet-treat may take you back to childhood memories, but you will see a new spin on it’s presentation. How does snickerdoodle sandwiches sound? Or chocolate ice cream between two gooey brownies? This hot food-item allows for creativity and the best part is that there are no rules. 

Non-Wheat Noodles

For those of you who follow a gluten-free diet, you may applaud that non-wheat noodles are trending right now. Brown-rice pasta has my vote for traditional taste, although quinoa pasta is a close second. Incredibly soft and flavorful, there is no way to differentiate between it and regular noodles. Non-traditional noodles are making their way into dishes this year. I am already a huge fan of spaghetti squash, but am thrilled at all of the new options that are coming to market. Expect to see more options in vegetable noodles, such as sweet potato, butternut squash and zucchini noodles.

Juicing is an easy way to introduce fruits and veggies into your food regimen.  I’m not one to eat an entire plate of kale on its own, but mixed up with some of my favorite juicing ingredients, not only is the bitter taste disguised, but I am feeding my body with power foods all at once. As a bonus, blended with banana, apple chia seeds and carrots it tastes great!    

If you have never juiced before, don’t worry! It’s not as intimidating as those bulky blenders make it look. The important thing is to find combinations that you like, and slowly branch out to new ones. When formulating for your juice, always start with a base. Fruits and veggies produce the liquid in your drink, therefore producing the most volume. (For the beginners out there, it’s ok to start with the majority of your base being fruit.) Carrots, berries, apples, celery, cucumber, wheat grass and sweet potatoes are just a few bases to begin with along with the sweet taste of beets and cucumbers. 

Next add leafy greens! It might be easy to assume that by adding your least favorite part of a salad to your juice, the taste is going to take a turn for the worst. Here’s a secret, that I’ll give to you completely free! Spinach disguises the taste of kale. Really?? Yes! Really! So load it up! The amount of vitamins and minerals that this pair offers is impeccable and you’re not going to want to miss out on it. To add more flavors and anti-oxidants to your juice, add mint leaves, ginger, parsley lemon/lime or even honey to taste. 

It’s important that when juicing, that you remove any skin, rinds or peels that the fruits and veggies may have. Juicers are meant to finely grind what you mixing, the blades are not meant to break down anything other than the leaf or fruit interior. 

When juicing, it is best to drink it right away, but you may store up to 24 hours in the refrigerator. Make sure you store your juice in an airtight container…Mason jars, while trendy these days make for a great juicing vehicle. 

Now all you have to do is buy a juicer. There are so many juicers on them market, that will meet the needs of all budgets. The Cuisinart Juicer and Breville both offer low and high end juicers. It seems this holiday season the Magic bullet made the top list for its compact size and east cleaning features. 

Start your new juicing journey with these three recipes:

Green Juice Blend

1 C. Pineapple

1 Green apple

1 Green pear

6 Kale leaves

Orange Juice Blend

1 Mango

1 C. Pineapple

10 Carrots

2 Orange

Purple Juice Blend

½ C. Blueberries

Handful of mixed berries or Strawberries

½ head of medium red Cabbage

½ C. Cranberries

There are a few foods that I started eating about a year ago in restaurants or at a friend’s home or sometimes because I brought them home to cook. In my job, I taste and evaluate foods all day long, but there are always some that become personal favorites. Here are my new prize-winners and I’m going to eat a lot more of them in 2014. Most are healthy choices, but there are a few guilty pleasures on the list and that’s fine. I can live with a few guilty pleasures; we all should.

Snow Pea Shoots – once a rare delicacy found mostly in high-end Chinese restaurants like Shun Lee Palace in Manhattan, snow pea shoots and pea tendrils are making it to mainstream menus that feature both Asian and Modern American Cuisine. Chefs love them because they are so pretty on the plate. I want them because they are so delicious.

Frozen Greek Yogurt – I was already a huge fan of the thick Greek version of yogurt. Then I tried Frozen Greek Yogurt. Nirvana. The frozen Greek yogurt has a superior consistency and it is entirely luscious with blueberries and a drizzle of organic honey.

Green Tea and Black Tea – While I confess to drinking a tall bold red-eye (shot of espresso in very strong coffee) every afternoon, I have promised both my body and spirit to enjoy the benefits of green tea and black tea this year. Of course, this comes after three months of private yoga classes.

Korean Beef Short Ribs – This is the guilty pleasure. The balance of sweet and savory in the slightly fatty marinated grilled meat is probably more sugar and sodium than allowed for a month of Paleo or Weight Watcher eating, but somehow I dream of good Kalbi and yes, I want the white rice with minced scallions on top as well. (note: Korean foods are going to be very big in 2014).

Pomodoro Sauce – How can something so simple be oh so delicious? Johnny Carrabba’s grandmother, brought her family recipe from Italy to Texas and now foodies all over American enjoy it at her family’s casual restaurants. I adore this sauce over ziti or as a base for steamed mussels and clams. (recipe below.)

Shitake Mushrooms – I like them sautéed with fresh thyme and ghee (clarified butter). These pricey mushrooms are antioxidants, but more important, they are exquisitely flavorful in an omelet for dinner or atop grilled sliced sirloin steak. They’re worth the extra money.

Octopus – Yes, it does look a little scary when it’s served, but when octopus is cooked properly, with a good quality olive oil, salt and preserved lemons, it is tender and delicious with a hint of deep-sea brininess. Finding a restaurant that can prepare octopus correctly is like finding gold. But, it’s worth the quest. I think octopus is best when lightly sautéed or served chilled with a lemony vinaigrette. (recipe below.)

Kale Caesar Salad – while the bigger bitter curly kale leaves are best turned into oven-baked chips with sea salt or dropped into vegetable soup, many stores sell baby kale leaves that are almost the same texture as baby spinach. Omitting the croutons keeps the salad healthier. Baby kale is the year’s run-away winner in the category of dark leafy green vegetables!

Honey Crisp Apples – For years I championed the crisp tart Macintosh as the apple to beat. But now, the giant juicy apples known as Honey Crisp have stolen my heart and claimed my taste buds. Find them at Fresh Market stores around the country. Some Honey Crisps are nearly the size of a softball. I cannot stop eating once I take the first bite. Slightly sweet with an abundance of juicy crisp goodness. This apple is aptly named.

Tomato Sauce Pomodoro

Mama Mandola, Carrabba’s Restaurants

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 can whole tomatoes in juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

¼ cup fresh chopped basil

Combine the onion and oil in a medium sauce pan over a medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden brown and just beginning to caramelize, about 12 minutes. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour the tomatoes and their juices into a bowl. Crush the tomatoes between your fingers. Pour the tomatoes and their juices into the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium low. Simmer, stirring often, until the tomato juices have thickened and the sauce has reduced slightly, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove from the heat. Sprinkle the basil over the sauce and cover with a lid. Let stand 5 minutes. Stir in the basil. Refrigerate or freeze.

Cork Braised Portuguese Octopus

Chef Benjamin Rottcamp,  Crab & Fin Restaurant

1 each octopus (head removed & rinsed)

4 wine corks (real cork not synthetic, red or white)

3 ribs of celery (washed and halved)

2 white onions peeled and halved

½ bunch thyme

4 bay leaves

8 garlic cloves

1 cup white wine

1 1/2 gallons water

Place all ingredients in a large stockpot EXCEPT OCTOPUS. Bring to boil and cook for ½ an hour. Dunk octopus quickly 3 times for 3 seconds or until tentacles curl and drop completely. Put octopus into the pot. Bring back to boil and simmer for 35 to 45 min (depending on size). Check for tenderness; remove octopus from cooking liquid and cool in refrigerator. When completely chilled, remove all tentacles from center ring and reserve.

For Vinaigrette:

Heat 1 cup of extra virgin oil with 2 sliced shallots until tender. Add 1 tablespoon chopped garlic and cook for a minute. Allow to cool. Add 1 tablespoon capers and 1 tablespoon caper berries. Zest and juice of 1 lemon and add. Then add fresh chopped oregano, 1 leaf preserved lemon. Season to taste with kosher salt and fresh black pepper.

To Plate:

Chargrill or pan sear octopus in a little extra virgin olive oil. Toss vinaigrette with fresh ripe tomatoes, octopus and mixed baby greens. Serve with toast points.

F&M